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DOAJ Open Access 2025
Digital Printing Knitted Fabrics made of Polyamide, Cotton and Blends thereof

Petra Forte Tavčer

Knitted fabrics with different compositions, i.e. 100% cotton (CO), 100% polyamide (PA), and a blend of 50% cotton and 50% polyamide (CO/PA), were digitally printed with reactive dyes. The cotton fabric was pretreated with a conventional alkaline solution of alginate thickener, sodium carbonate and urea (A). The polyamide fabric was pretreated with an acidic solution of galactomannan thickener (GM). The CO/PA blend was pretreated once with the alginate and once with the galactomannan preparation. The aim of the study was to determine whether the proposed preparation is suitable for printing polyamide with reactive dyes and which preparation is more suitable for printing the cotton-polyamide blend. The CIE L*a*b* colour values, the colour depth (K/S) and the dye penetration of the printed samples were compared. It was determined that under the same printing conditions, the highest colour depth was achieved on cotton, while a lower depth was recorded on polyamide. The colour depth on the cotton-polyamide blend was lower than on the two pure fabrics. For some colours, the colour depth was higher with the alginate thickener preparation, for others with the galactomannan thickener, so that no definitive preference for one preparation over the other can be given for printing blends. The colour fastness of the prints to dry rubbing (crock test), light and washing at 40 °C was acceptable for all samples.

Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2025
Poly-D,L-Lactic Acid as a Compatibilizer for Nootkatone-Embedded Nylon 12 Fabric Manufacturing

Javier Jimenez, Joseph A. Orlando, James E. Cilek et al.

Personal protection from mosquitos is dominated by topically applied aerosol sprays or lotions, which demonstrate efficacy durations of no longer than 10 h, thus encouraging the research and development of long-term insect-repelling devices. Repellent-loaded polymeric matrices have driven the development of insect-repelling apparel fabrics; however, most efforts either fail to offer the tensile properties demanded from apparel applications or only demonstrate repellency durations for multiple days. This study utilizes poly-D,L-lactic acid (PDLLA) as a compatibilizer between Nylon 12 and nootkatone for enhanced nootkatone retention throughout fabric manufacturing processes. Nootkatone-infused Nylon 12/PDLLA composites demonstrate up to a 14% increase in nootkatone retention throughout fabric manufacturing compared to pure Nylon 12, underscoring the importance of polymer/substrate miscibility on substrate retention. Moreover, while nootkatone-infused Nylon 12 filaments demonstrate decreasing tensile stress at breaks with increasing nootkatone content, Nylon 12/PDLLA filaments exhibit similar tensile properties regardless of nootkatone content. The PDLLA domains are suspected to behave as reservoirs for excess nootkatone to prevent its role as a defect within the Nylon 12 matrix. The resulting knits exhibit significant mosquito repellencies over 24 h dependent on the nootkatone concentration, thus demonstrating potential to embed insect repellent within high-performance polymeric filaments with effective mosquito repellencies. Therefore, the incorporation of PDLLA as a compatibilizer holds significant potential for enhanced nootkatone retention during Nylon 12 fabric manufacturing.

Chemicals: Manufacture, use, etc., Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2024
Enhancing Water Barriers by Protein-Based Surface Treatments for Cellulose-Based Materials

Bartłomiej Mazela, Andreas Treu, Karolina Tomkowiak et al.

The global packaging sector has grown consistently, and the use of sustainable materials, including recycled and biodegradable products, is expected to rise. This study focuses on the potential of producing barriers for water and water in moist air (water vapor) from proteins to protect cellulosic materials. Owing to the specific requirements of packaging materials, the main subject of this research was their barrier and strength properties. The scope of this work includes selecting components and their physicochemical treatment to produce functionalized coatings on sprayed paper and pure films, as well as film-coated samples (paper laminated with film). The following tests were used to estimate the hydrophobic, hygroscopic, and strength properties: Cobb absorption, contact angle testing, dynamic vapor sorption, and dynamic mechanical analysis. In most cases, the spray-coated paper and film-coated samples absorbed less liquid water than untreated paper. Wheat gluten protein was the most effective water barrier. In all variants, the vapor sorption, desorption, and hysteresis effects (or the lack thereof) showed significant differences compared to those of cellulosic materials. All variants of the spray-coated and film-coated samples in the dynamic mechanical analysis showed an increase in the strength properties of the samples in comparison to the untreated paper. The increased humidity caused a significant loss in the mechanical properties of all variants, exceeding the strength loss of the untreated control samples.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2024
مروری بر تولید رنگ آبی خوراکی: فیکوسیانین

مهدیه قمری, مرضیه صالحی

امروزه استفاده از مواد رنگزا طبیعی در صنایع غذایی و دارویی بسیار حائز اهمیت است. مواد رنگزا طبیعی به دست آمده از حیوانات، گیاهان و میکروارگانیسم‌ها جایگزین امیدوارکننده‌ای برای مواد رنگزا خوراکی مصنوعی هستند زیرا مواد رنگزا سنتتیک در دراز مدت تاثیر منفی بر سلامت انسان دارد. فیکوسیانین به عنوان یک ماده رنگزا طبیعی آبی و محلول در آب به جای مواد‌ رنگزا خوراکی آبی مصنوعی استفاده می‌شود که علاوه بر رنگ دادن به غذا، خواص مفید بالقوه‌ای به عنوان آنتی‌اکسیدان‌ها و عوامل ضدسرطانی نیز داشته و از این رو مورد توجه علمی و صنعتی قرار گرفته‌اند. فیکوسیانین از ریزجلبک ها مانند اسپیرولینا استخراج می‌گردد و نقش سلامت بخش در برابر شرایط مختلف مانند سرطان، کم خونی، التهاب، دیابت، چاقی و اختلالات عصبی دارد و به دلیل کاربردهای متنوع در صنایع مختلف غذایی و دارویی محبوبیت پیدا کرده است. در این تحقیق مروری بر تولید بیوتکنولوژیکی ماده رنگزا آبی خوراکی فیکوسیانین از ریزجلبک اسپیرولینا، کشت میکروبی، استخراج، خالص‌سازی، روش‌های پایداری و کاربردهای آن پرداخته شده است.

Building construction, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2023
Development of a new yarn supply for weft knitting machines to produce innovative knitwear

Prisca Holderied, Thomas Mutschler, Solveig Tresp et al.

The increasing demand for technical textiles makes innovations and acceleration of processes necessary. This research paper presents an innovative knitting technology. The technology, which was funded by the European Regional Development Fund as an R&D-project (EFRE-0400310), reduces production time and creates completely novel innovative knitting structures. This paper introduces the validation process of the innovative technology and therefore brings the theoretical considerations into a practical application. The yarn supply technology enables the production of an innovative double-layered fabric on flat and circular knitting machines. This double-faced fabric consists of two single-faced fabric sides which are knitted by a first yarn in the front needle bed and a second yarn in the rear needle bed. These two fabrics are joined by a third yarn knitting in both needle beds in the same carriage stroke. The method ensures that up to three yarns knit in one system pass. Furthermore, a fourth yarn can be implemented to insert a weft yarn. Additionally, the two single-faced fabrics can be produced simultaneously in the same carriage stroke in the front and rear needle beds. In this case, fewer carriage strokes are required for knitting standard structures such as Milano Rib. This structure can be produced one third faster than with conventional methods. The results show that the technology on the circular knitting machine produces good quality knitted fabrics. On the flat knitting machine, however, further research and development are needed to validate the technology.

Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc., Engineering machinery, tools, and implements
DOAJ Open Access 2023
Bibliometric Analysis of Research History, Hotspots, and Emerging Trends on Flax with CiteSpace (2000-2022)

Shuaishuai Gao, Su Chen, Rong Huang et al.

With the growing health and environmental consciousness, flax (Linum usitatissimum L.) has attracted more attention owing to its great potential in the food, health care, and material industry. For such an important crop, it is crucial to understand its development history, current status, and hotspots and finally find the future directions of flax research. This paper mainly analyzed the published articles (collected from the Web of Science) related to flax from 2000–2022 and the cited references by these articles using the software of CiteSpace. Results showed that the number of studies on flax kept increasing and increased rapidly from 2010 to 2022. Canada and France are the leading countries in flax research with more than 970 articles published during the period. By analyzing the high-frequency keywords, five important research areas were found: (1) flax fiber quality and its application in composites, (2) chemical composition and products of flaxseed, (3) tolerance of flax to stress and genetics, (4) cellulose and lignin, (5) fiber-reinforced composites and flax fabric. With the strongest citation bursts, bio-composite with flax straw has become the hottest research area for flax. In the future, efforts should still be made to the simplified and efficient production of flax owing to the higher labor cost, and more attention should be paid to healthier flaxseed food and flax-based environmentally friendly biomaterials. Finally, decreasing the cost of cultivation and pre-processing and developing end products with higher values would greatly promote the development of the whole flax industry.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2023
Study on tearing strength of woven sisal fabrics for tents and polymer composite applications

Nagamadhu M., S. B. Kivade, P. Jeyaraj et al.

The use of plant fibers as a reinforcement in composites has increased daily owing to their favorable environmental considerations. Fabric properties play a significant role in alignment during composites processing, enhancing the composite properties. However, the fabric structures are formed by warp and weft yarns. These yarns are subjected to axial and shear loads, respectively. However, very limited work has been carried out on the study involving the tearing strength of the fabric. So it is necessary to study the effect of the tearing load of fabrics before converting them into composites. This paper focuses on the tearing strength of the sisal woven fabrics in both warp and weft directions. Two plain and one weftrib fabrics are prepared using sisal fibers, and their physical properties were characterized as per textile testing standards. Tear strength has been determined by Elmendorf Tear and Single Rip Tear Method by varying crosshead speeds. The result shows that woven patterns and number yarns significantly impact tearing strength. In the case of the weft rib pattern, the warp direction exhibits the highest tearing strength compared to the weft direction. Also, in the case of weftrib fabrics, the weft direction indicates better-tearing strength than another woven pattern.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2023
Developing an AI-based automated fashion design system: reflecting the work process of fashion designers

Woojin Choi, Seyoon Jang, Ha Youn Kim et al.

Abstract With the recent expansion of the applicability of artificial intelligence into the creative realm, attempts are being made to use AI (artificial intelligence) in the garment development system in various ways, both in academia and the fashion business. Several IT companies have developed and possess AI-based garment design technologies that utilize StyleGAN2 for image transformation. However, they are not widely utilized in the fashion business. Since fashion brands need to create numerous designs to launch new garment products for at least two seasons per year, the adoption of AI-based garment design generation technology can be one way to increase work efficiency. Therefore, this research aims to collect and analyze existing cases of AI-based garment design tools in order to identify the similarities and differences between the garment development processes of human designers and the existing AI-based garment design tools. Based on this analysis, the research aims to develop an AI-based garment development system that takes into consideration the garment development process of human designers, incorporating fashion domain knowledge.

Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc., Social Sciences
DOAJ Open Access 2022
Phytoremediation of Soils Contaminated with Cadmium by Agave americana

Sivakoti Ramana, Awadhesh Kumar Tripathi, Ajay Kumar et al.

Agave americana was evaluated for its phytoremediation potential of the soils contaminated with Cd. This plant was selected because of its drought tolerance and high biomass. The pot culture experiment was carried with five levels of cadmium (0, 25, 50,100, and 200 mg Cd kg soil−1). Parameters, viz. uptake, translocation factor (TF), translocation efficiency (TE), bioconcentration factor (BCF), etc., were calculated to study the phytoremediation potential. The study indicated that the plant was highly tolerant to Cd at lower levels, i.e., up to 50 mg Cd kg soil−1, but there was a significant reduction in dry weight of root, leaf, and total at higher levels of, i.e.,, 100 and 200 mg Cd kg soil−1. Cd mainly accumulated in the roots, and exclusion was found to be the principal physiological tolerance mechanism. Based on the tissue concentration of Cd (<100 μg g−1 in the leaves; and TF and BCF <1), A. americana was classified as an excluder of Cd. However, since, the plant could establish an evergreen cover over the contaminated/polluted land surface because of its exponential reproductive capacity, it could be suitable for the phytostabilization of soils contaminated with Cd.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2022
Isolation and Properties of Cellulose Nanocrystals Fabricated by Ammonium Persulfate Oxidation from <i>Sansevieria trifasciata</i> Fibers

Nafiis Lazuardi Indirasetyo, Kusmono

Cellulose nanocrystals (CNCs) were successfully prepared from <i>Sansevieria trifasciata</i> fibers (STFs) via ammonium persulfate (APS) oxidation in this study. The influences of the APS concentration (1.1, 1.5, and 1.9 M) and oxidation temperature (60, 70, and 80 °C) on the characteristics of CNCs were studied. The resulting CNCs were characterized using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), X-ray diffraction (XRD), transmission electron microscopy (TEM), and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). The TEM observations revealed that the rod-like CNCs possessed average length and diameter ranges of 96 to 211 nm and 5 to 13 nm, respectively, which led to an aspect ratio range of 16–19. The optimum conditions for maximum crystallinity were achieved at an oxidation temperature of 70 °C, a reaction time of 16 h, and an APS concentration of 1.5 M. All CNCs exhibited lower thermal stability compared to the STFs. The CNCs could be produced from the STFs through the APS oxidation process and showed potential as nanocomposite reinforcement materials.

Chemicals: Manufacture, use, etc., Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2021
Thermal Analyses of Loose Agave, Wheat Straw Fibers and Agave/Wheat Straw as New Hybrid Thermal Insulating Materials for Buildings

Mohamed Ali, Abdullah Alabdulkarem, Abdullah Nuhait et al.

Agave (AF) and wheat straw (SF) fibers are good raw materials for thermal insulation. In this study, loose agave or wheat straw fibers and hybrid boards of agave/wheat straw with different compositions and densities are tested for their thermal insulation qualities. Three new novel hybrid specimens are considered. In all specimens, cornstarch (CS) was used as a binder for the fibers. Thermal conductivity coefficient is obtained for each specimen in the temperature range 10–60°C with the resulting average value in the range 0.04555–0.06835 W/m K. Without binding, loose fibers of agave and wheat straws have an average thermal conductivity of 0.043592 and 0.044678 W/m.K, respectively, at the same range of temperature. Micrographs of the wheat straw fibers (SF) are conducted using the scanning electron microscope (SEM) which showed an average outer diameter between 1.28 and 1.98 mm and an average diameter of the bound porous tubes (multicellular) within the straw in the range 34.5 to 75.6 μm. Fourier transformation infrared (FT-IR) analyses of the wheat straw fiber are carried out which indicated stretching wavenumbers which present different chemical functional groups. Thermogravimetric analysis of the wheat straw fiber (TGA and DTGA) showed that the straws lose less than 3% of its mass at temperatures as high as 184°. Finally, the differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) analysis test of the wheat straw fiber indicates that endothermic transition starts at 342°C with a peak value at 749°C. Three-point bending moment tests for bound specimens are made and show an increase in both flexural stress and flexural modulus of the hybrid specimens. Using these hybrid specimens, agro, renewable and environmentally friendly materials in buildings will share in energy saving when used as insulation materials for building walls.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2021
Preparation of Polypyrrole/Silver Conductive Polyester Fabric by UV Exposure

Wang Xiaofei, Wan Ailan, Jiang Gaoming et al.

In this study, polypyrrole/silver (PPy/Ag) conductive polyester fabric was synthesized via an in-situ polymerization method under UV exposure, using silver nitrate (AgNO3) as an oxidizing agent in the presence of sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate (SDBS) and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP). The effect of the preparation processes on the properties of the conductive fabric was studied experimentally, and the optimal preparation process of the conductive fabric was obtained. X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) showed the chemical structural properties of the PPy/Ag conductive polyester fabric. X-ray diffraction (XRD) confirmed the presence of silver nanoparticles in the prepared material. Furthermore, subsequent test results proved that the PPy/Ag conductive polyester fabric prepared by UV irradiation had good electrical conductivity and antibacterial property. The sheet resistance of the prepared conductive fabric was 61.54 Ω • sq−1.

Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2021
Advanced Composite Retrofit of RC Columns and Frames with Prior Damages—Pseudodynamic Finite Element Analyses and Design Approaches

Theodoros Rousakis, Evgenia Anagnostou, Theodora Fanaradelli

This study develops three-dimensional (3D) finite element (FE) models of composite retrofits in deficient reinforced concrete (RC) columns and frames. The aim is to investigate critical cases of RC columns with inadequate lap splices of bars or corroded steel reinforcements and the beneficial effects of external FRP jacketing to avoid their premature failure and structural collapse. Similarly, the RC-frame FE models explore the effects of an innovative intervention that includes an orthoblock brick infill wall and an advanced seismic joint made of highly deformable polymer at the boundary interface with the RC frame. The experimental validation of the technique in RC frames is presented in earlier published papers by the authors (as well as for a four-column structure), revealing the potential to extend the contribution of the infills at high displacement ductility levels of the frames, while exhibiting limited infill damages. The analytical results of the advanced FE models of RC columns and frames compare well with the available experimental results. Therefore, this study’s research extends to critical cases of FE models of RC frames with inadequate lap splices or corroded steel reinforcements, without or with brick wall infills with seismic joints. The advanced pseudodynamic analyses reveal that for different reinforcement detailing of RC columns, the effects of inadequate lap-spliced bars may be more detrimental in isolated RC columns than in RC frames. It seems that in RC frames, additional critical regions without lap splices are engaged and redistribution of damage is observed. The detrimental effects of corroded steel bars are somewhat greater in bare RC frames than in isolated RC columns, as all reinforcements in the frame are considered corroded. Further, all critical cases of RC frames with prior damages at risk of collapse may receive the innovative composite retrofit and achieve higher base shear load than the original RC frame without corroded or lap-spliced bars, at comparable top displacement ductility. Finally, the FE analyses are utilized to propose modified design equations for the shear strength and chord rotation in cases of failure of columns with deficiencies or prior damages in RC structures.

Chemicals: Manufacture, use, etc., Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2020
Image Analysis as a Method of the Assessment of Yarn for Making Flat Textile Fabrics

Idzik Marcin, Idzik Marek

During the technological processing of staple fibers into yarn drafting, waves are formed which increase the irregularity of yarn linear density and consequently affect the yarn quality. Even a correctly performed technological process does not allow one to completely eliminate yarn faults (thin and thick places, neps) and yarn irregularity. All the yarn imperfections distinctly become apparent in flat textiles made of such a yarn. The quality of the yarn produced should be assessed already in spinning mill, using the results obtained to conclude on the quality of woven or knitted fabrics. Modern metrological laboratories in spinning mills possess Uster Tester 5 (UT5) apparatuses that not only assess the yarn quality with respect to the irregularity of linear density, faults (thin and thick places, neps), or hairiness, but also using the test results obtained make it possible to create a digital image of the predicted appearance of a flat fabric made of the yarn tested. This article presents a computer-aided method of the analysis of the woven and knitted fabric images obtained from UT5 that allows one to assess the significance of particular yarn parameters in the predicted appearance of flat fabrics.

Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2019
Effect of Nozzle Diameter on Basalt Continuous Fiber Properties

Sergey I. Gutnikov, Bogdan I. Lazoryak

The experimental data presented in this work show the effects of nozzle diameter, drawing speed, and formation temperature on the diameter and strength of basalt filaments and melt flow rate. Several series of basalt continuous fibers were obtained using a specially designed crucible of platinum&#8722;rhodium alloy with four nozzles of different diameters (1.5, 2.5, 3.5, and 4.5 mm). The conditions of the process varied in formation temperature (from 1370 to 1450 &#176;C) and winding speed (from 300 to 1200 m/min). Melt flow rate was almost independent of the winding speed, indicating laminar flow of the melt through the nozzles and the Newtonian nature of the liquid. The results show strict correlations between fiber diameter, nozzle diameter, and winding speed. The diameter of the fibers had a significant effect on their strength. The tensile strength of the obtained basalt fibers varied from 550 to 3320 MPa depending on the formation conditions. The results of this work could be useful not only for scientists, but also for technologists seeking the optimal conditions for technological processes.

Chemicals: Manufacture, use, etc., Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2019
A quantification of the preferred ease allowance for the men’s formal jacket patterns

In Hwa Kim, Yun Ja Nam, Hyunsook Han

Abstract The purpose of this study is to provide a quantitative reference required for the decision of ease allowance to draft men’s formal jacket patterns by quantifying the customers’ actual tendency regarding the preferred fit. The ease allowances of 62 male customers were investigated through the sensory evaluations, once in the initial fitting jackets which were designed using the graded sizing chart of ready-to-wear, and once again in the custom-made jacket customers ordered. The 5-point Likert scale was used for the sensory evaluation and the preferred ease allowance was defined as the ease allowance of respondents who responded “3_Suitable”. The regression equations were developed to estimate preferred ease allowance by inputting body size measurements which showed the highest correlation with the preferred ease allowances. The estimated ease allowance ranges by inputting the 5th to 95th percentile of the body sizes were 5.17–8.25 cm for the chest circumference, 6.90–2.09 cm for chest–waist circumference on the jacket, − 3.82 to 1.34 cm for the chest–hip circumference on the jacket, 1.58–5.86 cm for the upper arm circumference, − 1.80 to 1.95 cm for the bi-shoulder length, and 0.406–0.425 for the ratio of jacket length to stature. The actual tendency of the jacket consumers can be estimated by result of this study, which make the jacket pattern which conforms to current fashion trends can be produced minimizing the potential fit problems.

Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc., Social Sciences
DOAJ Open Access 2019
Flexural Behavior of Hybrid-Reinforced Concrete Exterior Beam-Column Joints under Static and Cyclic Loads

Ammar Yaser Ali, Ali Abdulameer Al-Rammahi

This study presents an experimental investigation of the flexure behavior of exterior beam-column joints made from hybrid concrete (normal concrete (NC) and reactive powder concrete (RPC)) or hybrid reinforcement (steel and carbon fiber reinforced polymer (CFRP) bars internally or externally by near surface mounted (NSM) technique). Nine hybrid-reinforced concrete beam-column joint specimens under the effect of static or cyclic loading were studied and tested within three test groups. Several variables that affect the behavior of the beam-column joint region are investigated such as: type of loading (static or cyclic), type of hybridization (concrete hybridization or reinforcement hybridization), and area of concrete hybridization. The results showed that using RPC as a replacement concrete at different areas of beam-column joint under static loading improved the ultimate load capacity and first cracking load to about 8&#8722;32% and 20&#8722;60%, respectively, compared with the reference NC joint with increase in the ductility of about 6&#8722;14%. Moreover, using the same technique under cyclic loading condition showed an increase in the ultimate load of about 39%, with improvement in the cumulative ductility of about 12% compared with the reference NC joint. On the other hand, using CFRP bars as (internal or external) hybridization system (33% of main reinforcement) under static loading caused increments of ultimate and first cracking loads of about 11%, 8% and 0%, 30%, respectively compared with the reference steel reinforced joint; while the ductility ratio increased about 36%, 5%, respectively. Moreover, the internal hybrid reinforcement system exhibited a decrease in the ultimate load of about 15% and reduction in the cumulative ductility of about 40% under cyclic loading.

Chemicals: Manufacture, use, etc., Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.

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