Grain size distribution and characterization of sedimentary processes of Cox's Bazar Beach, Bangladesh: Implications for understanding coastal morphodynamics
Md. Masidul Haque, Mozammal Haque, Koichi Hoyanagi
This study aims to investigate the factors influencing modern beach development along the southeastern Bengal Basin coast by analyzing the grain size and heavy mineral (HM) distribution in sediment. This study provides insight into the granulometric characteristics, depositional environments, and sedimentation processes that shape the coast. Eighty surficial beach samples were collected from Kakra in the north, Inani, and Teknaf in the south, along Cox's Bazar Beach to characterize the sediment. The fine-to medium-grained (1.76–2.54 φ), well-to moderately well-sorted (0.34–1.23 φ), nearly symmetrical ((−0.10)–0.03), and mesokurtic (0.93–1.28) sands indicate the uniformity of the grain sizes. The bivariant plot of the grain size parameters, linear and multivariate discriminant functions, and course (one percentile value) to medium (C−M) diagram reveal that the sediment was deposited in an aeolian, shallow agitated, turbidity-influenced beach environment. The sand has higher concentrations of HMs in the swash zone (4.9 %–19.1 %), followed by the surf zone (3.5 %–12.3 %), backshore area (2.2 %–12 %), and dunes (2.5 %–6.2 %). The spatial distribution of the grain parameters indicates that moderately well-sorted medium-grained sand was deposited in the swash zone, whereas well-sorted to very well-sorted fine-grained sand was found toward the land. Waves with strongly asymmetric currents carry sediment from offshore areas in a turbulent manner, resulting in coarser sand and a greater proportion of HM deposits in the swash zone and finer particles back to the ocean. In contrast, the wind carries sediment landward, forming dunes. The oblique approach of waves along the coast results in the formation of longshore currents, which influence sediment movement and lead to decreasing grain sizes from south to north. Overall, this study enhances the understanding of the factors influencing modern beach development along the Bengal Basin coast, providing valuable insight into coastal sedimentation and its management.
River protective works. Regulation. Flood control, Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses
Experimental study on the settling of irregularly shaped sediment particles from the source region of the Yangtze River
Xiaoyong Cheng, Zhijing Li, Yujiao Liu
et al.
Settling plays a pivotal role in sediment transport and morphological evolution of alluvial rivers. Sediment particles in the source regions of large rivers are more likely to feature irregular shapes due to less abrasion than in lower reaches of the rivers. However, the settling of irregularly shaped sediment particles from the source region of a river has to date remained poorly understood. Here, sediment particles were sampled from the Tuotuo River basin in the source region of the Yangtze River. A total of 28 experimental runs were done in a purpose-built settling cylinder to investigate the settling of the sediment particles, with particle Reynolds number, Rep, defined using terminal settling velocity, ranging from 0.22 to 5,939. The results demonstrate that large Rep and irregular particle shape favor unstable settling behavior with wobbling motion and intense velocity fluctuations. An irregular particle experiences larger drag, and, thus, attains a lower terminal velocity than an equivalent sphere, and the shape effect which reduces terminal velocity tends to become significant with increasing Rep and decreasing Corey shape factor. The measured terminal velocities are compared with five empirical formulas. It is shown that the formulas of Dietrich, Haider and Levenspiel, and Wu and Wang are favorable to use (within the range ±20% of the measured data), whereas Zhang's formula and van Rijn's formula may considerably overestimate the terminal velocity, as no shape descriptor is incorporated to account for irregular shape effects. The current study facilitates a new experimental dataset that may be utilized to further investigate sediment settling dynamics. Also, it has direct implications for enhancing the understanding of morpho-dynamics in the source region of the Yangtze River, which may experience significant changes in response to climate change and anthropogenic activities.
River protective works. Regulation. Flood control, Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses
Geospatial Analysis of Heavy Metal Concentrations in the Coastal Marine Environment of Beihai, Guangxi During April 2021
Chaolu, Bo Miao, Na Qian
Heavy metal pollution from human activities is an increasing environmental concern. This study investigates the concentrations of Cu, Pb, Zn, Cd, Hg, and As in the coastal seawater offshore of Beihai, Guangxi, in April 2021, and explores their relationships with dissolved inorganic nitrogen, phosphate, and salinity. Our results reveal higher heavy metal concentrations in the northern nearshore waters and lower levels in southern offshore areas, with surface waters generally exhibiting greater enrichment than bottom waters. Surface concentrations show a decreasing trend from the northeast to the southwest, likely influenced by prevailing northeast monsoon winds. While bottom water concentrations decline from the northwest to the southeast, which indicates the influence of riverine runoff, particularly from the Qinzhou Bay estuary. Heavy metal levels in southern Beihai waters are comparable to those in the Beibu Gulf, except for Hg and Zn, which are significantly higher in the water of the Beibu Gulf. Notably, heavy metal concentrations in both Beihai and Beibu Gulf remain considerably lower than those observed in the coastal waters of Guangdong. Overall, Beihai’s coastal seawater meets China’s Class I quality standards. Nonetheless, continued monitoring is essential, especially of the potential ecological impacts of Hg and Zn on marine life.
Environmental sciences, Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses
Population Structure of the Dog Snapper, <i>Lutjanus jocu</i> (Bloch & Schneider, 1801), an Important Fishery Resource in the North of Bahia, Brazil: Influence of Habitat Suitability, Larvae Retention, and Fishing Pressure
Glaciane Conceição Marques, Juliana Beltramin De Biasi, Carlos Werner Hackradt
et al.
The Lutjanidae family includes multiple species highly important to the global fishing industry. In Brazil, approximately 40% of the fishing landings come from a species of this family, the dog snapper, <i>Lutjanus jocu</i>, among the most abundant in the northeast-region fisheries. This study aimed to analyze the genetic diversity and population structure of this species in the states of Bahia and Espírito Santo through the use of microsatellite markers. The dog snapper presented a high genetic variability in the studied populations, with the presence of a distinct population stock in northern Bahia probably driven by habitat suitability, larvae retention, and fishing pressure. The <i>L. jocu</i> sampling sites exhibited an excess of heterozygosity, a low allelic richness, and <i>M</i>-ratio values close to critical levels, probably indicating a recent population decline. Additionally, the low inbreeding indices and high genetic diversity values suggest a significant connectivity and considerably effective population sizes. Although these characteristics may reflect population stability, anthropogenic factors such as habitat loss, fragmentation, and overfishing may pose threats to the sustainability of the species, particularly along the northeastern coast of Brazil.
Environmental sciences, Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses
Insights on Payment for Environmental Services in Fisheries: A Systematic Review
Laura Develey, Leandra Regina Gonçalves
In the context of the prevailing environmental crisis, one innovative approach with the potential to promote inclusive conservation is payment for environmental services (PES). While numerous studies have documented the efficacy of PES in terrestrial ecosystems, mechanisms tailored to marine ecosystems remain relatively unexplored. The objective of this article is to conduct a systematic literature review to identify the essential components of a PES mechanism for fisheries and to map the lessons, challenges, and opportunities associated with it. Three databases were explored: Web of Science, ScienceDirect, and Scopus. Using Boolean operators, we searched for articles containing the following terms in the title, abstract, and/or keywords: “payment for ecosystem services” AND “fish*” and “payment for environmental services” AND “fish*”. Twenty-six articles focusing in depth on PES in the context of fisheries were identified. The results indicate that PES is a tool that can reconcile conservation and social objectives while offering numerous benefits for fisheries management. Nevertheless, it is imperative to meticulously evaluate the circumstances under which PES can meaningfully contribute to the inclusive conservation of marine and coastal ecosystems rather than assuming that it is a universal policy panacea.
Environmental sciences, Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses
Simulation of sand and mud transport processes in currents and waves by time-dependent 2DV model
Leo van Rijn, Karel Meijer, Kris Dumont
et al.
This paper presents a time-dependent, two-dimensional vertical model for the simulation of sand and mud concentrations, transport and bed level changes in tidal conditions with or without surface waves. The model solves the advection-diffusion equation for suspended sediment. The horizontal velocities and the sediment mixing coefficients are modelled as function of x, z, and t. The settling velocity is constant or modelled as function of the sediment concentration. The sediment mixing coefficient over the water depth is described by flexible expressions based on current and wave parameters which can be modified easily in the input file. To represent mud flocculation and hindered settling processes, the settling velocity can be set as constant or concentration-dependent (input). The bed boundary condition is modelled as a bed concentration as function of the bed-shear stress. The model is valid for low and high sand and mud concentrations including fluid mud concentrations. The numerical SUSTIM2V-model is herein used to simulate sand and mud transport as measured in tidal waters. The model is also successfully used for simulation of high mud concentrations in the near-bed region as measured in the mouth of the Amazon River. The model has also been used to simulate scour along an offshore caisson-type foundation structure.
River protective works. Regulation. Flood control, Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses
Marine Macro-Plastics Litter Features and Their Relation to the Geographical Settings of the Selected Adriatic Islands, Croatia (2018–2023)
Natalija Špeh, Robert Lončarić
Marine litter (ML), encompassing human-made objects in marine ecosystems, poses significant threats to the coasts of some Adriatic islands, despite their remoteness and sparse populations. These islands, reliant on tourism, are particularly vulnerable to ML pollution. This study hypothesized that the natural features of the islands influence ML distribution. It employes an integrated geographic approach combining the results of field survey (via sea kayaking) with various indicators which include: (1) coastal orientation and number density of bays, (2) vegetation exposure and biomass share, (3) island area and number density of bays, (4) bay openness and ML quantity, and (5) bay openness and plastic prevalence in ML. Focusing on islands of Lošinj, Pašman, Vis, and the Kornati and Elaphiti archipelago, the study analyzed data collected over six years (2018–2023). Results highlighted that NW-SE and W-E coastal orientations are particularly susceptible to ML accumulation, especially in the southern Adriatic. Linear Fitting Regression analyses revealed a stronger correlation between number density of polluted bays and the surface area of smaller islands (<10 km<sup>2</sup>) compared to larger islands (>10 km<sup>2</sup>). The following findings underscore the need for international collaboration and stringent policies to mitigate ML pollution, ensuring the protection of Adriatic marine ecosystems and the sustainability of local communities.
Environmental sciences, Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses
Closing the parachute and opening the umbrella: Strategies for inclusivity and representation in producing impactful coastal ecosystem research
Katie May Laumann, Nicholas M. Hoad, Lauren Alvaro
et al.
Parachute science is the problematic and extractive practice of non-local researchers taking data, knowledge and information from communities of which they are not members, failing to engage the local community and local scientists, marginalizing them in most aspects of the research, and using the results to their own benefit. Perpetuated by colonialism and unequal access to resources such as funding, education and data, it is harmful to local scientists and undervalues the contributions of the community as a whole. Ultimately, it erodes trust within the scientific community and, more broadly, builds dependence on foreign researchers and makes science less global and collaborative. Increasing international and cross-cultural collaborations while being careful to avoid parachute science can help minimize these impacts. Here, we offer our perspectives on parachute science and suggestions on how to avoid it, based on our experiences conducting research internationally with diverse scientists and communities, including both academics and non-academics. Instead of a parachute, we suggest opening the scientific “umbrella” to incorporate diverse perspectives and local contributions in generating relevant and impactful scientific insight.
Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses, Oceanography
Assessing Coastal Flood Risk Under Climate Change with Public Data and Simple Tools: The Geomorphological Coastal Flood Index Applied to the Western Mediterranean
César Mosso, Manuel Viñes, Carlos Astudillo
et al.
The Mediterranean coast is known for its great tourist attractions, concentration of population, and economic activities. Specifically, in the autonomous regions like Catalonia and Valencia, more than half of the population lives in coastal counties, and the population during the summer months increases due to the influx of tourists. Furthermore, in this stretch of coast, there are some areas of natural interest such as the Delta del Ebro or the Albufera, which are two of the most important wetland areas in the Mediterranean. However, according to studies by Day Today, the retreat of the coastline has increased in recent years, and this influences management of coastal territory both directly and indirectly, mostly harming all sectors with low levels, creating spaces with significant problems. It is for this reason that reporting on climate change and the impact on the coasts is assuming an important role in society, because they are essential tools for planning and management costs. In this thesis, the ground that would be affected by a +1 m, +2 m, and +3 m increase in average sea level, as simulated by the existing flood simulator, has been quantified. And a methodology has been developed for determining the vulnerability of the land based on flooding provided by terrain elevations, and each area studied was evaluated with different degrees of vulnerability: very high, high, moderate, or low. Finally, a first estimate has been made of economic loss that could involve a meter rise in the average sea level for Catalan beaches, and major damage to natural parks, urban areas, and major infrastructure has been identified. This study shows that there are nine areas with high vulnerability due to the low heights of their territory, and the majority of the flooded land is concentrated in the Ebro Delta and the Albufera, which jointly dominate the totals across scenarios.
Environmental sciences, Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses
Heat Stress Impacts on Coral Reef Ecosystems and Communities: An Evaluation of Visitor Perceptions, Behaviors and Substitution Effects in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, USA
Robert C. Burns, Ross G. Andrew, Danielle Schwarzmann
et al.
Evaluating the effects of environmental events across both biophysical and social dimensions is important in establishing a holistic view of such events. This study focuses on the impact of a devastating heat stress incident that occurred in many locations across the Caribbean region and South Atlantic during the 2023 summer season. The survey and focus of data collection was within Monroe County, a unique nature-based setting south of Miami, Florida, USA. The impact of the heat wave is still being calculated at the time of submission of this paper, but indications are that there was a major negative impact. The survey and data collection sought to understand recreationists’ perceptions, knowledge, and behavior changes as result of the heat stress impact in the Florida Keys. Respondents were interviewed during community workshops in person and through an online sample of boating/angler license holders. The results indicated a change in behavior by some respondents, which may have a longer-term economic impact, along with trends of satisfaction with outdoor recreation over time. This rapid survey method can be applied to future scenarios where social and economic data are needed to fully contextualize environmental impacts in addition to biological endpoints.
Environmental sciences, Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses
An Assessment of Tropical Cyclone Frequency in the Bay of Bengal and Its Impact on Coastal Bangladesh
Md Wahiduzzaman, Alea Yeasmin
This study examines the frequency of tropical cyclones in the Bay of Bengal and their impact on Bangladesh. The extent of environmental harm led to the selection of two specific areas: the Panpatty Union and Galachipa Upzilla in the Patuakhali district, and the Sariakat Union and Swandip Upzilla in the Chittagong district. The results indicate that cyclonic storms are more common in May and November. The results also demonstrate that the studied regions are vulnerable to the effects of tropical cyclones and suffer significant consequences. The differences in influence between the two locations are statistically significant with a confidence level of 90%. The findings have significant ramifications for policymaking decisions.
Environmental sciences, Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses
Mercury Biogeochemistry and Biomagnification in the Mediterranean Sea: Current Knowledge and Future Prospects in the Context of Climate Change
Roberto Bargagli, Emilia Rota
In the 1970s, the discovery of much higher mercury (Hg) concentrations in Mediterranean fish than in related species of the same size from the Atlantic Ocean raised serious concerns about the possible health effects of neurotoxic monomethylmercury (MMHg) on end consumers. After 50 years, the cycling and fluxes of the different chemical forms of the metal between air, land, and marine environments are still not well defined. However, current knowledge indicates that the anomalous Hg accumulation in Mediterranean organisms is mainly due to the re-mineralization of organic material, which favors the activity of methylating microorganisms and increases MMHg concentrations in low-oxygen waters. The compound is efficiently bio-concentrated by very small phytoplankton cells, which develop in Mediterranean oligotrophic and phosphorous-limited waters and are then transferred to grazing zooplankton. The enhanced bioavailability of MMHg together with the slow growth of organisms and more complex and longer Mediterranean food webs could be responsible for its anomalous accumulation in tuna and other long-lived predatory species. The Mediterranean Sea is a “hotspot” of climate change and has a rich biodiversity, and the increasing temperature, salinity, acidification, and stratification of seawater will likely reduce primary production and change the composition of plankton communities. These changes will likely affect the accumulation of MMHg at lower trophic levels and the biomagnification of its concentrations along the food web; however, changes are difficult to predict. The increased evasion of gaseous elemental mercury (Hg°) from warming surface waters and lower primary productivity could decrease the Hg availability for biotic (and possibly abiotic) methylation processes, but lower oxygen concentrations in deep waters, more complex food webs, and the reduced growth of top predators could increase their MMHg content. Despite uncertainties, in Mediterranean regions historically affected by Hg inputs from anthropogenic and geogenic sources, such as those in the northwestern Mediterranean and the northern Adriatic Sea, rising seawater levels, river flooding, and storms will likely favor the mobilization of Hg and organic matter and will likely maintain high Hg bioaccumulation rates for a long time. Long-term studies will, therefore, be necessary to evaluate the impact of climate change on continental Hg inputs in the Mediterranean basin, on air–sea exchanges, on possible changes in the composition of biotic communities, and on MMHg formation and its biomagnification along food webs. In this context, to safeguard the health of heavy consumers of local seafood, it appears necessary to develop information campaigns, promote initiatives for the consumption of marine organisms at lower trophic levels, and organize large-scale surveys of Hg accumulation in the hair or urine of the most exposed population groups.
Environmental sciences, Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses
Effectiveness of Eco-Engineering Structures in Salt Marsh Restoration: Using Benthic Macroinvertebrates as Indicators of Success
Carlos Gonçalves, Tiago Verdelhos, Isabel Caçador
et al.
Salt marshes are vital coastal ecosystems, increasingly threatened by rising sea level and human pressures, that provide essential services, including coastal protection, habitat support, and carbon sequestration. This study examines the effectiveness of different eco-engineering structures in restoring salt marshes in the Mondego Estuary, Portugal, by assessing their impacts on benthic macroinvertebrate communities as bioindicators of ecosystem health. The experimental design included five experimental cells: wood palisade (Fence), geotextile fabric (Geotextile), geotextile bags filled with sand (Bags), a cell with autochthonous vegetation (Plants), and a Control cell with bare soil. Monitoring took place from 2019 to 2021, with both before and after intervention sampling to evaluate species composition, biomass, and density. Key ecological indices, such as the AZTI’s Marine Biotic Index (AMBI), Shannon-Wiener Diversity, and Pielou’s Evenness, were calculated alongside measurements of environmental variables. The results indicated minimal impacts on biodiversity, with observed variations primarily attributed to seasonal dynamics. While the wood palisade enhanced species richness and density, geotextile provided better community stability. The findings emphasize the importance of long-term monitoring, stakeholder engagement, and sustainable use of materials to optimize restoration efforts and better inform coastal management strategies in the face of climate change.
Environmental sciences, Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses
Impact of the Toxic Dinoflagellate <i>Alexandrium catenella</i> on the Valve Movement of <i>Mytilus edulis</i>: A Comparison between Two Populations with Contrasting Histories Exposure
Guillaume Durier, Luc A. Comeau, José M. F. Babarro
et al.
Shellfish aquaculture farms, due to their coastal position, face the threat of exposure to harmful algal blooms. Such blooms can release, among others, paralytic shellfish toxins (PST) produced by the dinoflagellate <i>Alexandrium catenella</i> and are known to cause the restriction of bivalve harvesting sites. Shellfish can accumulate PSTs in levels that are poisonous for humans, therefore making them unfit for consumption. Thus, the ability to detect PSTs before they reach the critical threshold is crucial for minimizing losses in the industry. Previous studies have demonstrated that toxic algae detection is possible with the use of an early warning system based on the valve-gaping behaviour of blue mussel <i>Mytilus edulis</i>. However, some studies observed the presence of toxin resistance in other species of bivalves when they are regularly exposed to PSTs. If no resistance is observed whatever the past history of the populations would be with regard to PST exposure, this species could be appropriate as a sentinel candidate. In this study, we compare the valve-gaping behaviour of two blue mussel populations with contrasting long-term histories of PSTs events (i.e., regularly vs. not previously exposed to the PSTs producer) were compared using experimental exposure of <i>A. catenella</i> to <i>M. edulis</i>. It was found that mussels from both populations exhibited similar gaping behaviour patterns when exposed to <i>A. catenella</i>. For both populations, the number of valve closures and closure duration tended to increase in the presence of <i>A. catenella</i>, which suggested an avoidance response to the toxic dinoflagellate. In conclusion, our results support the use of <i>M. edulis</i> without origin discrimination
Environmental sciences, Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses
Persistent eutrophication and hypoxia in the coastal ocean
Minhan Dai, Yangyang Zhao, Fei Chai
et al.
Coastal eutrophication and hypoxia remain a persistent environmental crisis despite the great efforts to reduce nutrient loading and mitigate associated environmental damages. Symptoms of this crisis have appeared to spread rapidly, reaching developing countries in Asia with emergences in Southern America and Africa. The pace of changes and the underlying drivers remain not so clear. To address the gap, we review the up-to-date status and mechanisms of eutrophication and hypoxia in global coastal oceans, upon which we examine the trajectories of changes over the 40 years or longer in six model coastal systems with varying socio-economic development statuses and different levels and histories of eutrophication. Although these coastal systems share common features of eutrophication, site-specific characteristics are also substantial, depending on the regional environmental setting and level of social-economic development along with policy implementation and management. Nevertheless, ecosystem recovery generally needs greater reduction in pressures compared to that initiated degradation and becomes less feasible to achieve past norms with a longer time anthropogenic pressures on the ecosystems. While the qualitative causality between drivers and consequences is well established, quantitative attribution of these drivers to eutrophication and hypoxia remains difficult especially when we consider the social economic drivers because the changes in coastal ecosystems are subject to multiple influences and the cause–effect relationship is often non-linear. Such relationships are further complicated by climate changes that have been accelerating over the past few decades. The knowledge gaps that limit our quantitative and mechanistic understanding of the human-coastal ocean nexus are identified, which is essential for science-based policy making. Recognizing lessons from past management practices, we advocate for a better, more efficient indexing system of coastal eutrophication and an advanced regional earth system modeling framework with optimal modules of human dimensions to facilitate the development and evaluation of effective policy and restoration actions.
Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses, Oceanography
Modelling the Effects of Oyster Tables on Estuarine Tidal Flow
Nicolas Guillou
Oyster farming may impact the estuarine tidal circulation with a series of effects on environmental conditions and cultures’ growth. Hydrodynamic numerical models set up in estuaries integrated the presence of oyster structures by simply increasing the bottom friction coefficient over farming areas. However, for elevated oyster tables in tidal environments, such default calibration ignored the temporal variations of the friction coefficient between the conditions of submerged or unsubmerged structures. Thus, an original formulation of the Chézy coefficient was here proposed to integrate these modulations. Assessed against measured and predicted vertical velocity profiles on a 1/2 scaled model, this formulation was implemented in a simulation of the tidal circulation within the Aber Wrac’h estuary (Brittany, France). Particular attention was dedicated to the changes induced on the current magnitudes and sediment transport. Oyster tables were found to impact current magnitudes in the vicinity of elevated structures, with major differences at times of local peak flood and ebb. These modifications were characterised by (i) a reduction of current magnitudes over oyster farming areas and (ii) a tidal-flow acceleration on both sides of these structures. Increased sediment transport was, therefore, expected in the vicinity of these cultures, with potential implications on seabed morphology and water quality.
Environmental sciences, Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses
Fires, floods and other extreme events – How watershed processes under climate change will shape our coastlines
Jonathan A. Warrick, Amy E. East, Helen Dow
Ongoing sea-level rise has brought renewed focus on terrestrial sediment supply to the coast because of its strong influence on whether and how long beaches, marshes and other coastal landforms may persist into the future. Here, we summarise findings of sediment discharge from several coastal rivers, revealing that infrequent, large-magnitude events have disproportionate influence on the morphodynamics of coastal landforms and littoral cells. These event-dominated effects are most pronounced for small, steep mountainous rivers that supply beach and wetland sediment along the world’s active tectonic margins, although infrequent events are important drivers of sediment discharge for rivers worldwide. Additionally, extreme events (recurrence intervals of decades to centuries) that follow wildfires, earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, extreme precipitation or – most notably – combinations of these factors can redefine coastal sediment budgets and morphology. Some of these extreme events (e.g., wildfires plus rainfall) are increasing in magnitude and frequency under modern climate warming, with the likely result of increasing sediment flux to affected coastlines. Climate change is also altering watershed processes in both high latitudes and high altitudes, resulting in increased sediment supply to downstream catchments. We conclude that sediment inputs to coastal systems are highly variable with time, and that the variability and trends in sediment input are as important to characterise as long-term averages.
Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses, Oceanography
Development and Application of Local Coastal Knowledge: Insights from New Zealand Surfers
Oakley Campbell, Shane Orchard
Through their accumulated experiences with coastal environments, surfers may be uniquely qualified as a source of local knowledge on surf breaks and wider coastal management topics. Despite popular associations between surfers and the environment, critical enquiries are needed to establish the scope and depth of surfers’ knowledge and the processes that may influence its development. In this study, we expected that relationships between surfers and the coastal environment would be highly variable and dependent upon several outside factors, including individual motivations and biases. This broad hypothesis was tested through an oral history study of 15 New Zealand surfers, which examined the development of coastal environment knowledge through surfing experiences and explored its applications to resource management in New Zealand. Surfers can develop a unique local knowledge of the coast that is often specific to their favourite locations but can also include regional insights obtained through site-scale comparisons. These may include relatively detailed observations that are typically difficult to detect or measure and that are primarily generated through sustained surfing experiences. Socio-cultural factors, including gender stereotypes, localism, equipment bias, and interaction with accessibility, were identified as key influences on individual motivations and knowledge generation contexts. This study argues that surfers’ perspectives are critical to informing management decisions in the coastal environment. Knowledge residing in the surfing community is dependent on individual associations with surf breaks, yet it can be harnessed across meaningful scales to inform coastal management. Moreover, the generation of local knowledge through surfing experiences adds to the societal benefits of protecting surf breaks.
Environmental sciences, Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses
Study of Flow Characteristics around a Near-Wall Circular Cylinder Subjected to a Steady Cross-Flow
Mohammad Amin Salehi, Said Mazaheri, Mohammad Hossein Kazeminezhad
Three-dimensional RANS simulations are employed numerically to study flow characteristics around a near-wall circular cylinder for varying gap-to-diameter (G/D) ratios (Where G is the gap between the cylinder and the wall and D is the cylinder diameter) and at Reynolds numbers from 100 to 3900. Pressure distribution around the circular cylinder, base pressure magnitude, separation and stagnation angles, force coefficients and Strouhal numbers were calculated and compared for all of the cases. Inception of vortex shedding can be seen when a sudden decrease in the maximum of positive pressure coefficient occurs. Vortex shedding mechanism and possibility of suppression further investigated via comparison of swirling strength in upper and lower vortex regions through parameter Λ, which signifies vortical activity and balance with respect to the wake center-line and also the flow type parameter, λ, representing the extensional strain dominance in the wake flow and gap flow. Vortex shedding suppression observed for the cases with the high unbalance vorticity content in the vortex regions, namely for Λ ≥ 2.
Ocean engineering, Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses
Sensitivity of an Axi-Symmetric Tropical Cyclone Model to Two External Parameters
Nafiseh Pegahfar, Maryam Gharaylou
More realistic simulation of hazards caused by Tropical Cyclones (TCs) requires knowledge of the mechanisms that formulate tropical cyclone. Here, sensitivity of an idealized framework has been tested to investigate role of two external parameters in vertical entropy flux. The first parameter controls the ratio of width of eyewall and downdraft regions to radius of maximum wind and the second parameter controls radial decay of wind velocity between two regions. This numerical model used conservation principles, assumed axi-symmetry and steadiness to model TC vortex, and let ventilation be occurred via the path-ways of downdrafts outside eyewall and eddy fluxes directly into eyewall. To test this framework, Tropical Cyclone Haiyan (TCH, formed over the Western part of Pacific Ocean on 3 November 2013) has been selected. Two kinds of datasets including Joint Typhoon Warning Centers (JTWC) Best Track data of Japan Meteorology Agency and Global Forecast System Analysis (GFS-ANL) data have been used. The model has been run for 60 different configurations, based on change of the two external parameters and size of two random do-mains. The sensitivity of the modeled convective entropy flux to the applied changes has been examined via two different aspects of investigation. In the first aspect, terms of the reference equation of convective entropy flux have been considered and their responses to the changes have been studies. While in the second aspect, values of the convective entropy flux at TCH peak activity time (PAT), before and after that have been inspected. Results, obtained from the first aspect, obviously indicate that the increase of the first external parameter increases the all terms of the referred equation, while increase of the second external parameter influenced the terms differently. Also enlarging the domains’ size does not impress the results similarly. Outcomes of the second aspect reveal that the implemented changes non-uniformly impact the values of the modeled convective entropy flux in the three considered times.
Ocean engineering, Harbors and coast protective works. Coastal engineering. Lighthouses