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DOAJ Open Access 2026
Balancing aesthetics and usefulness: how visual transformation influences consumers’ intention to use smart clothing

Shin Young Jang, Jisoo Ha

Abstract This study investigates how visual transformative (VT) smart clothing, garments that dynamically change color, pattern, or silhouette through integrated materials or embedded technological mechanisms, influences consumer adoption by examining its effects on perceived usefulness (PU), aesthetics (AES), hedonic motivation (HM), and social influence (SI). Drawing on TAM, UTAUT, and UTAUT2, we modeled VT as the independent variable, perceived aesthetics (AES), perceived usefulness (PU), hedonic motivation (HM), and social influence (SI) as mediators, and age (AGE), socio-cultural experience (SCE), technological experience (TE), and individual innovativeness (II) as moderators. An online survey of 350 Korean women aged 20–59 evaluated function-oriented versus expression-oriented smart clothing stimuli. Data were analyzed using correlation analysis, hierarchical regression, and PROCESS macro models. VT significantly increased AES but decreased PU, producing a negative total effect on intention to use via a suppression pattern in which the adverse PU pathway outweighed aesthetic gains. AES and PU significantly mediated the VT–intention relationship, whereas HM and SI did not, indicating that adoption of VT garments is driven primarily by functional and aesthetic judgments rather than hedonic or social processes. Moderated mediation analyses showed that AGE, SCE, and TE strengthened the PU–intention path, amplifying the negative indirect effect of VT among younger, culturally exposed, and technologically experienced consumers, while II exerted only a limited influence. These findings conceptualize visually transformative smart clothing as a distinct category whose acceptance depends on resolving tensions between expressive appearance and functional credibility, offering guidance for the design and communication of technology-embedded fashion.

Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc., Social Sciences
CrossRef Open Access 2025
A review of exploring ionic and nonionic dyeing of polyester: sustainable solutions and applications

Girma Moges, Mihret Pawlos, Yayeh Ademasu et al.

The textile industry is increasingly adopting cutting-edge technologies for dyeing polyester fabrics, driven by the need for enhanced color vibrancy and durability. Polyester, a synthetic polymer made primarily of terephthalic acid and a diol, presents distinct challenges in dyeing due to its hydrophobic nature and lack of reactive sites. This review introduces novel approaches for overcoming these challenges by examining the dyeing of polyester fibers with both ionic and nonionic dyes, with a particular focus on advanced surface modification techniques such as plasma treatment, ultrasonic waves, ozone exposure, and chitosan application. These innovative methods introduce reactive functional groups to the polyester surface, significantly improving its affinity for ionic dyes, which offer superior reactivity and color stability compared with nonionic dyes. While prior research has explored dyeing strategies for polyester, a comprehensive review specifically addressing the use of ionic and nonionic dyes alongside surface modification technologies remains rare. This paper highlights new insights into the mechanisms of dye–fiber interactions, emphasizing how surface treatments can enhance dye uptake, improve light fastness, and enable more vibrant and durable shades. This review further discusses the interplay between functional groups on polyester fibers and ionic dyes, proposing that integrating both dye types can optimize both aesthetic and functional properties in polyester textile applications. The novel contribution of this study lies in its detailed exploration of how surface modifications can be tailored to enable a broader and more effective range of dyeing options, leading to advancements in the coloration of polyester textiles.

2 sitasi en
DOAJ Open Access 2025
Evaluating thermal performance of sewn-through baffled jackets using spacer stitching and conventional sewing via advanced thermal manikin

Hassan Saeed, Adnan Ahmed Mazari, Md. Tanzir Hasan

Sewing is one of the oldest known joining technologies and is historically used to prepare protection wear against harsh weather conditions. It remains a fundamental technique for manufacturing insulated garments, including jackets, sleeping bags, and other cold-weather apparel. Traditionally, these products are usually composed of textile fabrics and insulation materials which are joined together via sewn-through methods. While effective in securing layers of textile and insulation materials, conventional sewing techniques have an inherent limitation that is, the compression along stitch lines. This compression creates thermal bridges that allow heat to escape, reducing the overall thermal efficiency of the garment. To overcome this issue, an innovative sewing method called “ Spacer Stitching ” has been developed. Unlike conventional methods, Spacer Stitching maintains a 3D stitch structure and minimizes compression along stitch lines, preserving the insulation’s loft and enhancing thermal resistance. This study evaluates the thermal performance of jackets made using spacer stitching compared to those constructed with conventional sewn-through methods. Two identical jackets were produced, differing only in their stitching technique. To accurately measure thermal performance, an advanced thermal manikin was used under stationary conditions. The experimental results revealed that jackets made with Spacer stitching exhibited significantly higher thermal resistance than those made with conventional methods. Additionally, the spacer stitching technique minimized cold spots and maintained more consistent insulation, leading to improved overall thermal comfort. These findings demonstrate the potential of spacer stitching to revolutionize the design of insulated apparel, offering enhanced thermal efficiency and comfort for cold-weather applications.

Materials of engineering and construction. Mechanics of materials, Chemical technology
DOAJ Open Access 2025
Experimental and Theoretical Analysis of a Hybrid FRP Strengthening Technique for Reinforced Concrete Circular Columns

Kittipoom Rodsin, Rattapoohm Parichatprecha

This study presents a preliminary experimental and analytical investigation into the effectiveness of newly developed hybridized basalt fiber-reinforced polymers and e-glass (B-CHSM) jackets. Twenty-four RC specimens were fabricated, with variables including unconfined compressive strength and the number of B-CHSM layers. The experimental results demonstrated significant enhancements in compressive strength and strain, with improvements of up to 325% and 322%, respectively, compared to unconfined specimens. Specimens with an unconfined strength of 15.5 MPa achieved a 325% increase in ultimate strength with three-layer B-CHSM confinement. For low unconfined strength specimens, strain improvements of 135%, 218%, and 322% were observed with 1-, 2-, and 3-layer B-CHSM confinement, respectively. Low-strength specimens strengthened with 1-, 2-, and 3-layer confinement showed 30%, 22%, and 88% higher ultimate strength than medium-strength specimens and 75%, 75%, and 165% higher strength than high-strength specimens. The study evaluated existing analytical models for FRP strengthening, revealing their limitations in accurately predicting the performance of B-CHSM-confined concrete. Consequently, regression-based expressions were developed, achieving coefficients of determination exceeding 0.80. These expressions were utilized to idealize the stress-strain curves, enabling precise representation of B-CHSM-confined concrete behavior. The predicted curves closely matched experimental results, confirming the reliability of the proposed methodology.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2025
Application of the FEA consumer needs model in e-commerce: a conversational recommendation system for fashion products

Hyeryeon Park, Suji Kim, Yerim Choi et al.

Abstract With the rapid expansion of e-commerce, consumers increasingly rely on online platforms to purchase fashion products. However, the vast selection of products often leads to choice overload, making it challenging for consumers to find products that meet their needs. To address this challenge, we propose an advanced Conversational Recommender System (CRS) that applies a Functional, Expressive, and Aesthetic (FEA) consumer needs model. Using this model as a theoretical framework, this study constructs a taxonomy of consumer needs organized into categories and subcategories, each containing multiple attributes, and uses a Large Language Model (LLM) to apply it to review data, extracting attributes that influence purchase intention. Furthermore, CRS experiments were conducted to assess the impact of consumer needs attributes on recommendation performance. Our results indicate that the FEA model-based consumer needs taxonomy effectively categorizes consumer needs, with ease, good value for money, and leg contouring emerging as the most frequently mentioned attributes. Moreover, consumer needs attributes vary across different pants types, highlighting the importance of need-aware recommendations. Experimental evaluation of the CRS demonstrates that incorporating consumer needs attributes improves the recommendation success rates and reduces the average number of turns. Through the empirical application of the FEA model in the CRS, this study demonstrates its effectiveness in improving recommendation performance and its potential in enhancing consumer satisfaction.

Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc., Social Sciences
DOAJ Open Access 2025
Advancing green retrofitting: Investigating bamboo and coconut fiber composites under chemical and thermal stresses

Paul O. Awoyera, Oghenemaro Aghagba, Md Azree Othuman Mydin et al.

Natural fiber-reinforced polymers (NFRPs) are promising sustainable materials for structural retrofitting, yet their durability under chemical and thermal stresses remains underexplored. This study compares bamboo and coconut fiber-reinforced polymer composites exposed to 5% hydrochloric acid, 5% sodium hydroxide, 5% sodium chloride, and temperatures up to 200°C. Laminates were fabricated and tested for tensile and flexural properties, with microstructural analysis via scanning electron microscopy. Bamboo composites showed significant degradation, especially under acidic and saline conditions, with flexural strength reductions up to 67%. In contrast, coconut fiber composites demonstrated greater chemical and thermal resilience, maintaining or improving tensile strength and exhibiting better stability at elevated temperatures due to higher lignin content. These results suggest coconut fiber composites are more suitable for retrofitting applications in aggressive environments. The findings contribute to advancing sustainable construction by identifying natural fiber composites with enhanced durability for environmentally responsible structural rehabilitation.

Materials of engineering and construction. Mechanics of materials, Chemical technology
DOAJ Open Access 2025
Multi-Scale Toughening of UHPC: Synergistic Effects of Carbon Microfibers and Nanotubes

J. D. Ruiz Martínez, J. D. Ríos, H. Cifuentes et al.

This study investigates multi-scale reinforcement of Ultra-High-Performance Concrete through targeted modifications of its mechanical and fracture-resistant properties via carbon microfibers and carbon nanotubes. The research employed comprehensive characterization techniques including workability tests, mercury porosimetry for microscale porosity analysis, and X-ray tomography for macro-scale pore evaluation. Mechanical performance was assessed through compression strength, tensile strength, and fracture energy measurements. Results demonstrated significant performance enhancements testing UHPC samples with 6 mm carbon microfibers (9 kg/m<sup>3</sup>) and varying carbon nanotubes dosages (0.11–0.54 wt%). The addition of carbon microfibres improved compressive strength by 12%, while incorporating 0.54 wt% carbon nanotubes further increased strength by 24%. Remarkably, the combined reinforcement strategy yielded a 313% increase in tensile strength compared to the reference mixture. The synergistic effect of carbon fibers and carbon nanotubes proved particularly effective in enhancing concrete performance. This multi-scale reinforcement approach presents a promising alternative to traditional steel fiber reinforcement, offering superior mechanical properties and potential advantages in corrosive environments.

Chemicals: Manufacture, use, etc., Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2024
Characteristics of Wool of Selected Polish Local Sheep Breeds with Mixed Type Fleece

Anna Kicińska-Jakubowska, Jan Broda, Małgorzata Zimniewska et al.

The wool of several native breeds raised in Polish mountains and foothills was examined. The content of natural contaminants and basic wool parameters, thickness and length was determined during investigations. In addition, the wool morphology was analyzed by electron microscopic observations. It was revealed, that the fleece of sheep for all breeds is a mixed type, which is formed from more delicate, thinner and shorter wool with the addition of thicker and longer guarded hairs. In the fraction of guarded hairs, a high amount of medullated fibers and kemp occur. Comparing the wool obtained from sheep of white and colored varieties, it is stated that wool has similar characteristics. Additionally, it was found that similar parameters exhibit wool obtained from sheep of the same breed originating from various flocks raised in different locations. Analyzing the wool characteristics, the possibilities for its potential application were indicated.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2024
Nature-Friendly Water-Based Resin Paints with SiO2 Nanoparticles for Electrostatic Spraying

Hai Li, Byungil Hwang, Eunchong Kim et al.

This study presents an environment-friendly and less toxic approach to electrostatic spraying using novel water-based resin paints enhanced with SiO2 nanoparticles. Addressing the environmental and health concerns of traditional toxic solvent-based coatings, our research emphasizes the development and application of these paints on anodized aluminum substrates. Our experimental procedure involves formulating water-based paints; applying them via electrostatic spraying; and analyzing their stability, coverage, and adhesion properties. The findings demonstrated that the paints maintained stability and showed improved adhesion and uniformity without using a toxic solvent-based resin, particularly on substrates with extended anodizing treatment. This study highlights the potential of using water-based resin paints in industrial applications, offering a sustainable, efficient, and high-performance alternative to conventional coatings, paving the way for future research into their broader application and environmental impact.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2023
Thermodynamic qualification of knitted spacer fabrics for use as insulation box insert in the context of refrigerated transport containers in the logistics sector

Julia Klausmann, Thomas Mutschler, Prisca Holderied et al.

Temperature-sensitive products such as refrigerated and frozen goods pose particular challenges for logistics. Against the background of the mobility shift towards electric vehicles and the current challenges of temperature-stable transport in the field of pharmaceutical, esp. vaccine logistics in the context of the SARS-CoV-2 pandemic, new, energy-efficient vehicle equipment is needed to maintain cold chains. Known refrigeration concepts are designed to cool the entire cargo hold. In addition, the goods cannot be removed from the vehicle while maintaining the cold chain. An insulating effect of containers is typically achieved by using foamed polystyrene (Styrofoam). On the one hand, these structures have a very good insulating effect, but on the other hand, they cannot be reduced in volume during recirculation and are problematic with regard to recycling. The aim of the research presented here is therefore to develop a knitted box that is designed as a volume-reducible, rigid but foldable box. This can be used as a supplement to existing transport container systems and therefore can be inserted in the transport container. The knitted box performs as insulation when the transported goods are actively cooled inside the box, which is more sustainable and flexible than recent insulation solutions. Knitted fabrics, especially spacer fabrics, have advantageous thermo-physical properties for this application due to their structural design. In the course of a research project, various spacer fabrics were tested for their thermo-physical suitability as insulation materials. It was found that knitted predetermined folding lines represent an insulation gap. Based on this, a new structure was developed which, due to its structural design, compensates for cold or thermal bridges at vertices and edges of the box. The results show that the knitted corrugated structure insulates better than the knitted spacer fabrics with predetermined folding lines. A thermal imaging camera was used to identify critical points for heat transfer.

Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc., Engineering machinery, tools, and implements
DOAJ Open Access 2023
Digital marketing from the perspective of the producer/seller in the SMEs of textile and clothing industry

Dimitrijević Dragan, Dimitrijević Natalija, Adamović Živoslav

The main component of generating high-quality, efficient and successful strategic marketing is, first of all, the definition of marketing strategies in accordance with business goals, that is, in accordance with the company's business strategy. Marketing strategy generation is the process of determining goals and choosing marketing strategies at the company level, aimed at specific markets, including the process of determining vision, mission and strategic goals, but also defining strategic positioning, i.e. detailed analysis of strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats of business and analysis of factors of the company's environment, as well as defining, choosing and implementing the strategy and auditing the results. As part of the marketing strategy, the marketing plan must be compatible with the business and marketing strategy, communication plans, Internet business plan and ICT strategy, which implies a detailed and precise definition of the basic elements of the marketing plan, as well as providing information about the markets in which business is conducted and current market conditions. movements, ways of measuring success, designing and planning marketing activities in certain time frames, as well as determining business strategy goals. The paper presents an explanation and analysis of the elements of effective digital marketing, which are necessary for the successful generation of marketing strategies and the effective implementation of marketing activity plans from the perspective of the manufacturer/seller, as well as an explanation and analysis of the elements of operational marketing, i.e. an explanation of the possible choices of digital marketing techniques, and recommendations for entrepreneurs SME textile and clothing industry.

Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
CrossRef Open Access 2021
Recovery of Water from Textile Dyeing Using Membrane Filtration Processes

Joanna Marszałek, Renata Żyłła

The aim of the work was to purify model textile wastewater (MTW) using a two-stage membrane filtration process comprising nanofiltration (NF) and reverse osmosis (RO). For this purpose, a nanofiltration membrane TFC-SR3 (KOCH) and reverse osmosis membrane AG (GE Osmonics) were used. Each model wastewater contained a selected surfactant. The greatest decrease in flux in the initial phase of the process occurred for the detergents based on fatty-acid condensation products. An evident decrease in performance was observed with polysiloxane-based surfactants. No fouling effect and high flux values were observed for the wastewater containing a nonionic surfactant based on fatty alcohol ethoxylates. During RO, a significantly higher flux and lower resistance were observed for the feed that originally contained the anionic agent. For the MTW containing the nonionic surfactant, the conductivity reduction ranged from 84% to 92% depending on the concentrate ratio at the consecutive stages of RO. After treatment, the purified wastewater was reused in the process of dyeing cellulose fibers with reactive dyes. The research confirmed that textiles dyed with the use of RO filtrates did not differ in quality of dyeing from those dyed in pure deionized water.

DOAJ Open Access 2022
Tensile, Flexural and Impact Properties of Hybrid Sunnhemp-Flax Fiber Based Thermosetting Composites

V. Naveen Krishna, M. Elango, T. Krishnan et al.

The recent trends in material science are focused toward composite materials. It has been used in a lot of real-life applications. In composite material, recently researchers concentrated on the natural fibers because of their sustainable effect and focus on the environment. In this paper, sunnhemp and flax natural fibers were selected for making the new hybrid natural composite material. The mechanical properties of hybrid natural composites were determined by experimental approach. The hybrid composite plates were made with the blending of sunnhemp and flax fibers using polyester resin as a matrix material. The sunnhemp-flax reinforced polyester composite plates were made by various fiber lengths such as 15 mm, 30 mm, and 50 mm. Similarly, composite plates were made with different orientations angles like 0°, 45°, and 90°. The mechanical test has been conducted for different orientations such as unidirectional, biaxial, triaxial, and random. It was found that the triaxial-oriented fiber exhibited better results in tensile strength (86.3 MPa), flexural strength (117.1 MPa), and impact strength (153.8 kJ/m2).

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2022
Simulation-Based Development of Gradient Woven Fabrics for Biomimetic Implants to Restore Tendons and Ligaments

Tobias Georg Lang, Dominik Nuß, Thomas Gereke et al.

Tendons and ligaments are complex tissues that are necessary for human movement. Injuries occur very commonly and treatment quite often requires implants. Such implants must be adapted to the biological and structural composition of human tendons and ligaments. Thus, the objective is to realize graded, biomimetic tendon and ligament implants that are long-term resorbable. First, basic woven fabrics are fabricated from biocompatible silk fibroin yarns. Starting from the basic fabrics, gradient fabrics, with three different weave zones, are then developed and produced. In addition, fabrics with variable width and lateral warp yarn offset are fabricated on the basis of open reed weaving (ORW) technology on a modified shuttle narrow weaving loom. Meso-scale finite element models are developed in order to support the design of the gradient weaves. First, TexGen software is used to create a close to reality fabric geometry. Models are then converted into beam element models using a Python script. Results of real and virtual tensile tests show a clear relationship between the crimp of the warp yarns in the fabric structures and the resulting elongations. The additional ORW yarn system influences the stiffness. The tensile behavior of experiments and simulation agree very well, so the models are suitable for further development of woven implants.

Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2022
Experimental Investigation on the Mechanical Properties of Indian Almond Fiber - Reinforced Composites Prepared by Different Types of Resins

Venkatesan Saradha Paramashivaiah, Padmavathi Kuppusamy Ramamoorthy, Ganesamoorthy Raju et al.

Natural composites are attracted in several engineering applications due to its light weight and environment-friendly nature. This research was intended to investigate the influence of resin type on the mechanical properties of composites. For that, Indian almond fiber-based composites were fabricated using different types of resins and the effect of resin on the mechanical properties of composites was investigated. Totally, three composites such as Polylactic acid (PLA)/Indian almond, Epoxy/Indian almond and Polypropylene (PP)/Indian almond were manufactured by compression molding method. Mechanical properties such as tensile, flexural, impact and hardness were analyzed. Results showed that PLA/Indian almond composite showed the maximum tensile strength of 70 MPa and flexural strength of 117 MPa due to the presence of stiffer PLA resin. PP/Indian almond composite exhibited the higher elongation of 3.83% due to the ductile nature of PP resin. Further, greater impact strength of 5.11 kJ/m2 was noted for PLA/Indian almond composite owing to more energy absorption. Moreover, PLA/Indian almond composite displayed the higher hardness of 90 shore-D. Hence, this research suggests that the PLA resin is better than the epoxy and PP in the improvement of properties of composites. Further, the PLA/Indian almond composite could be used in the structural applications because of its better performance.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2022
Physicochemical, Morphological, and Microstructural Characterisation of Bacterial Nanocellulose from Gluconacetobacter xylinus BCZM

Mustapha Abba, Bemgba Bevan Nyakuma, Zaharah Ibrahim et al.

The physicochemical, morphological, microstructural, bulk chemical, and thermal characterization of bacterial nanocellulose (BNC) isolated from Gluconacetobacter xylinus BCZM was performed in this study. The morphological and microstructural analyses of the transparent white BNC product is characterized by an asymmetrically oriented and dense network of fibrils with an average diameter of 200 nm. Energy dispersive X-ray (EDX) analysis revealed the elements carbon (C = 70.10 wt.%), oxygen (O = 23.10 wt.%), and sodium (Na = 6.8 wt.%). Functional group analysis revealed characteristic cellulose peaks observed at 3272.94 cm−1, 2922.91 cm−1, 1147.91 cm−1, and 929.06 cm−1 in the chemical structure of BNC. X-ray diffraction (XRD) confirmed that BNC consists primarily of pure cellulose, based on the four broad peaks detected at 2θ = 6.24°, 14.70°, 17.24°, and 23.08°. The peaks are attributed to the amorphous and crystalline regions of the diffraction planes characteristic of cellulose. Thermal analysis revealed BNC experienced significant thermal degradation from 30°C to 700°C mainly due to the cellulose dehydration, decomposition, and depolymerization reactions. Total mass loss (ML) was 57.24% whereas the residual mass (RM) was 42.76%. The findings indicate that the synthesized BNC is potentially useful for high crystalline, porous, and lower temperature cellulose applications.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2022
Modification of Wool Fibers via Base/Cationic Detergent Pretreatment and Transglutaminase-mediated Reaction of Keratin

Nusheng Chen, ChengKung Liu, Richard Ashby

The surface modification of wool fibers is an important part of the textile industry to add functionality and stability to wool products. In this study, we developed a process utilizing a base/cationic surfactant solution pretreatment followed by an enzyme-mediated keratin crosslinking reaction to modify the wool fibers. Changes in water contact angle demonstrated the successful transformation of the hydrophobic wool surface to a more hydrophilic one after soaking in sodium carbonate solution containing hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide (CTAB). The treated fabrics were further characterized by colorimetry and fluorescent spectrometry. Results showed that the pretreatment increased the yellowness of fabrics and caused some structural changes among certain amino acids, such as tryptophan and cystine. Keratin extracted from coarse wool fibers was further applied on pretreated fabrics through a microbial transglutaminase (mTGase) mediated reaction under mild conditions. Morphological characterization via SEM demonstrated the effective coverage of keratin on the scales of wool. The current method may provide an alternative processing protocol to modify wool fibers and improve the quality and performance of wool products.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2020
Investigation of the Influence of Technology Parameters and Thread Type on Embroidered Textile Element Quality

Daukantienė Virginija, Mikelionytė Karolina

Embroidery can be applied to improve esthetic or functional properties of products. However, the expected appearance of the original design may be discarded by unsuitable selected technological parameters of embroidery machine. Thus, the influence of the technological parameters and embroidery thread types on the embroidery geometric parameters and on tension characteristics of embroidery has been investigated in this research.

Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2018
Research of Genetic Polymorphism Species Linumu sitatissimum L. on a Basis a RAPD-Method

T. A. Rozhmina, Y.-B. Fu, A. Diederichsen et al.

The goal of this investigation was the interpretation of genetic polymorphism in flax using the random amplified polymorphic DNA (RAPD-PCR) technique in relation to genealogical information and eco geographic origin of the accessions. Protein markers have been successfully applied for identification of ecotypes of cultivated plants and for cultivar identification and registration. However, for intraspecific differentiation in flax effective protein markers have not been found. The DNA markers developed during the recent decades proved to be more efficient in detecting polymorphism in flax. The plant material were 287 accessions from the flax collection at the All-Russian Flax Research Institute (VNIIL) belonging to different botanical and eco-geographical groups based on the classification of the species Linumu sitatissimum L. On the basis of a molecular estimation the gene pool offlax it can be assumed that the fiber flax from northern continental Russia is not exclusively of Indo-afghan origin as suggested by Sinskaja (1959), but also has genetic roots in flax from Kolchidian. Essential genetic similarity between cultivar of fiber flax from Russia and other the European countries is established. Results of a generality of an origin of fiber flax cultivar from Russia are confirmed also with the analysis of their genealogy. Essential genetic polymorphism of linseed flax is shown. The distinctness of linseed and fiber flax in their genetic constitution as revealed by the RAPD analysis is of strategic importance in preservation of the genetic diversity and for efficient use of the flax gene pool in breeding.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2018
Engineering a Costume for Performance Using Illuminated LED-Yarns

Dorothy A. Hardy, Andrea Moneta, Viktorija Sakalyte et al.

A goal in the field of wearable technology is to blend electronics with textile fibers to create garments that drape and conform as normal, with additional functionality provided by the embedded electronics. This can be achieved with electronic yarns (E-yarns), in which electronics are integrated within the fibers of a yarn. A challenge is incorporating non-stretch E-yarns with stretch fabric that is desirable for some applications. To address this challenge, E-yarns containing LEDs were embroidered onto the stretch fabric of a unitard used as part of a carnival costume. A zig-zag pattern of attachment of E-yarns was developed. Tensile testing showed this pattern was successful in preventing breakages within the E-yarns. Use in performance demonstrated that a dancer was unimpeded by the presence of the E-yarns within the unitard, but also a weakness in the junctions between E-yarns was observed, requiring further design work and reinforcement. The level of visibility of the chosen red LEDs within black E-yarns was low. The project demonstrated the feasibility of using E-yarns with stretch fabrics. This will be particularly useful in applications where E-yarns containing sensors are required in close contact with skin to provide meaningful on-body readings, without impeding the wearer.

Chemicals: Manufacture, use, etc., Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.

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