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DOAJ Open Access 2026
Comparative Analysis of Polyester Composites Reinforced with Local Plant Fibers: Stipa tenacissima Vs. Agave americana

Mostefa Meddah, Salah Amroune, Mansour Rokbi et al.

This work presents a comparative investigation of unsaturated polyester composites reinforced with two local Algerian lignocellulosic fibers: Stipa Tenacissima and Agave americana. These fibers were harvested, water-retted, and subsequently characterized using Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) and X-ray Diffraction (XRD). Single-fiber tensile testing, supported by Weibull statistical analysis, showed that Stipa Tenacissima fibers exhibit a higher Young’s modulus (~15.5 GPa) and lower elongation at break, whereas Agave fibers display lower stiffness (~6.7 GPa) but significantly greater ductility. Two unidirectional composites, unsaturated polyester/ Stipa Tenacissima and unsaturated polyester/ Agave Americana, containing each approximately 25 wt% fiber were fabricated using the vacuum-bagging process and cured at 70 °C for 2 h. Mechanical testing revealed substantial improvements compared to neat polyester. Stipa Tenacissima fiber composites achieved an increase of about 120% in tensile modulus and nearly 110% in flexural modulus. In contrast, Agave Americana fiber composites exhibited lower stiffness but superior strain-to-failure and toughness, with an enhancement of ~95% in flexural strength. Overall, the results confirm that both Stipa Tenacissima and Agave Americana are effective reinforcements for polymeric matrices: Stipa Tenacissima fibers primarily improve stiffness and strength, while Agave fibers enhance ductility and energy-absorption capability.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
CrossRef Open Access 2025
Investigation of mordant application in direct dyeing of nylon fabrics

Murat Ayberk Baran, Behcet Becerir

Being the first commercially available wholly synthetic textile fiber which was introduced to the market in 1939, nylon fibers are one of the most frequently consumed synthetic fibers. Direct dyes were commercially produced in the early 20th century and had been the preferred method of dyeing of cellulosic fibers together with vat dyes until the discovery of reactive dyes. The most important property of direct dyes is their easy dyeing but with a disadvantage of building up weak bonds within the fiber. Chemical mordants were used mainly in the application of natural dyes to hold and retain the dye molecules in textile fibers. In this research, nylon 6,6 fabric was dyed with four direct dyes of different hues in the presence of mordants (eight metallic and one bio-mordant) to obtain better exhaustion, fixation, and coloration properties. Pre-mordanting, meta-mordanting, and post-mordanting methods were used and the dyeings were performed at 1% owf at pH 5. Percentage of dyebath exhaustion (%E), percentage fixation (%F), and overall fixation (%T) were calculated after pyridine extraction. Wash and light fastness tests were applied on the dyed samples. The results were discussed via color strength (K/S), %E, %F, %T, and CIELAB color differences (ΔE ab *). The results revealed that mordant usage improved the coloration properties of direct dyes on nylon fabrics. The %E, %F, and %T results changed according to the independent variations of dye hue, mordant, and mordanting method. Certain mordants and mordanting method gave the best coloration and fastness results for the dyes under test.

2 sitasi en
DOAJ Open Access 2025
Leveraging AI for the Recreation and Restoration of Ancient Indian Costumes and Accessories

Anand Choudhary, Singh Sukhvir

The restoration and recreation of ancient Indian costumes and accessories are critical for preserving the nation’s rich cultural and historical heritage. This review explores the transformative role of artificial intelligence (AI) in studying and interpreting primary data sources to revive traditional attire and accessories from ancient India. Primary data sources, such as textual manuscripts, sculptures, iconography and archaeological findings, offer invaluable insights into ancient fashion. Yet, their interpretation is often complex, time-consuming and prone to human error. AI, with its advanced computational capabilities, has emerged as a promising tool to analyse and reconstruct these historical artifacts with remarkable accuracy and efficiency. This paper discusses the various applications of AI, including machine learning, computer vision and natural language processing, in decoding the intricate patterns, designs and cultural elements embedded in historical data to achieve accurate results. For instance, AI-powered image recognition tools and computer vision algorithms can analyse sculptural depictions to extract information about garment textures, draping styles and accessories. Natural language processing algorithms can decode ancient textual data, such as ancient scriptures and inscriptions, to understand and extract references to fabrics, dyeing and weaving techniques, ornamentation methods and the symbolic meanings of costumes. Even archaeological findings and reports, including remnants of textiles and ornaments, can be studied using AI for material composition analysis and virtual reconstruction. These technologies not only enable the recreation of visual representations of ancient attire but also provide insights into the socio-cultural and historical contexts of the time. This paper also highlights the challenges associated with integrating AI into this area, such as the limited availability of digitized primary data, the need for culturally sensitive algorithms and technological constraints in interpreting incomplete or degraded data. Despite these challenges, interdisciplinary approaches involving AI, history, design and archaeology hold immense potential to revolutionize the restoration of ancient Indian costumes. Despite these barriers, this study highlights the transformative potential of interdisciplinary collaboration among AI specialists, designers, historians, and archaeologists, and how technological innovation can support the accurate recreation of ancient Indian costumes and contribute meaningfully to the conservation and dissemination of India’s cultural heritage. The findings suggest that AI-driven methodologies can not only aid in the accurate recreation of ancient attire but also ensure the sustainable conservation of India’s cultural legacy for future generations.

Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2025
Performance of Hybrid Strengthening System for Reinforced Concrete Member Using CFRP Composites Inside and over Transverse Groove Technique

Ahmed H. Al-Abdwais, Adil K. Al-Tamimi

The use of a carbon-fiber-reinforced polymer (CFRP) for structural strengthening has been widely adopted in recent decades. Early studies focused on externally bonded (EB) techniques, but premature delamination of CFRP from concrete surfaces often limited their efficiency. To address this, alternative methods, such as Externally Bonded Reinforcement Over Grooves (EBROG) and Externally Bonded Reinforcement Inside Grooves (EBRIG), were developed to enhance the bond strength and delay delamination. While most research has examined longitudinal groove layouts, this study investigates a hybrid system combining a CFRP fabric bonded inside transverse grooves (EBRITG) with externally bonded layers over the grooves (EBROTG). The system leverages the grooves’ surface area to anchor the CFRP and improve the bonding strength. Seven RC beams were tested in two stages: five beams with varied strengthening methods (EBROG, EBRIG, and hybrid) in the first stage and two beams with a hybrid system and concrete cover anchorage in the second stage. Results demonstrated significant flexural capacity improvement—57% and 72.5% increase with two and three CFRP layers, respectively—compared to the EBROG method, confirming the hybrid system’s superior bonding efficiency.

Chemicals: Manufacture, use, etc., Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2025
Predicting the effect of fabric properties on the thermal insulation of sportswear by using artificial neural network and multiple linear regression approaches

Hasan Shah Md. Maruf, Akter Mahmuda

The study looks at two machine learning methods-multiple linear regression and artificial neural networks-to predict the thermal insulation value, known as CLO, of knit sportswear fabrics. The artificial neural network is created using feed-forward backpropagation and the trainlm training function in MATLAB. Its weights and basic values are adjusted using the Levenberg-Marquardt optimization method. The network uses the sigmoid transfer function to set the layer output and track its performance. When it comes to accuracy and how well it handles complex situations, the artificial neural network outperforms the multiple linear regression model. It better captures how thermal insulation values relate to fabric qualities. For the artificial neural network model, the mean absolute error percentage was 2.2771, the root mean squared error was 0.0017, and the coefficient of determination was 0.9268. The multiple linear regression model had a coefficient of determination of 0.8046 and mean absolute error percentages of 4.4170 and 0.0027. Compared to a time-consuming trial-and-error approach, the study shows that artificial neural networks are a better way to predict thermal insulation in textiles. This emphasizes how important these models are for creating energy-efficient designs and improving material engineering.

Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2024
Study on the promotion multiple of blood flow velocity on human epidermal microcirculation of volcanic rock polymer fiber seamless knitted fabric

Qian Shuxian, Jin Zimin, Zhang Yixing et al.

As a material that can release infrared rays, volcanic rock polymer fibers can be used in textiles to improve human microcirculation, which is helpful to relieve chronic inflammatory diseases such as perishoulder arthritis. In this article, there are two different kinds of exterior yarns. Volcanic rock blended polyester, volcanic rock blended polyamide, polyester and polyamide are chosen as the material type of exterior yarn Ⅰ, whereas the material type of exterior yarn II is conductive polyamide yarn. The exterior yarn feed ratio of exterior yarn Ⅰ and exterior yarn II is designed as 8:0, 7:1 and 6:2 when weft plain stitch, 1 + 1 mock rib and 1 + 3 mock rib are used as the knitted structure of the fabric. According to the three-factor four-level orthogonal experimental design method, the sample protocol was established, and 16 knitted sample fabrics were produced. Then, the promotion multiple of blood flow velocity on human epidermal microcirculation of each sample was tested and analyzed. The results show that the promotion multiple of blood flow velocity on human epidermal microcirculation of the fabrics woven by volcanic rock polymer fibers is better than that of the blank control group, and the difference between fabrics with different volcanic rock polymer fibers is small. The higher the proportion of exterior yarn Ⅰ is, the better the promotion multiple of blood flow velocity on human epidermal microcirculation of fabric will be. The effect of knitted structure on the promotion multiple of blood flow velocity on human epidermal microcirculation of fabrics is not obvious. This study provides reference for the design of medical or health textiles for chronic inflammatory diseases.

Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
CrossRef Open Access 2023
The potentials of plant-based colorants for sustainable textile dyeing industry

Lutamyo Nambela

Purpose The purpose of this study was to review the information on the scientific efforts and achievements in sustainable industrial textile applications of natural colourants. Then the paper suggests the ways of improving the industrial textile applications of plant-based colourants. Design/methodology/approach The literature on the chemistry, sources and extraction of plant-based natural colourants was reviewed. The reviewed information was analysed and synthesised to provide techniques for selecting sustainable extraction methods, possible sustainable textile applications of natural colourants and the challenges which hinder industrial textile applications of plant-based natural colourants. The ways of overcoming the challenges of the industrial textile applications of plant natural colourants were suggested. Lastly, the current situation of industrial application of natural dyes in textiles is presented. Findings Despite the scientific achievement to overcome the challenges of natural colourants for textiles, the global industrial application of natural colourants is still low. Inadequate knowledge of the dyers results into poor performance of the natural dyed textile. The natural dyed textiles are expensive due to the scarcity of raw materials for manufacturing of natural colourants. The selection of suitable extraction, application methods and type of substrate should consider the chemistry of the particular colourant. The society should be educated about the benefits of natural dyed textiles. Cultivation of colourant-bearing plants should be promoted to meet the industrial material demand. Originality/value The paper provides a synthesized collection of information about the source, chemistry, extraction, textile application and challenges of plant-based natural colourants. The reviewed information was analysed and synthesised to provide techniques for selecting sustainable extraction methods, possible sustainable textile applications of natural colourants and the challenges which hinder industrial textile applications of plant-based natural colourants. The ways of overcoming the challenges of the industrial textile applications of plant natural colourants were suggested.

DOAJ Open Access 2023
Extraction and Characterization of Cellulose and Microcrystalline Cellulose from Teff Straw and Evaluation of the Microcrystalline Cellulose as Tablet Excipient

Melese Getachew, Tesfaye Gabriel, Anteneh Belete et al.

Teff (Eragrostis tef), a grass which belongs to the Family Poaceae, is widely cultivated for its starch-rich grains in Ethiopia, generating large amounts of agricultural byproduct, teff straw. The aim of this study was to isolate and characterize cellulose and microcrystalline cellulose (MCC) from teff straw and evaluate MCC as directly compressible tablet excipient. Cellulose was extracted from teff straw and partially depolymerized to obtain MCC. The physicochemical properties of cellulose and MCC powders were characterized. Yields of cellulose and MCC powder from the raw material were 35.2% and 27.2%, respectively. The samples exhibited type-I crystal lattice and similar infrared spectra with that of Avicel PH-101. The degree of polymerization (DP) and crystallinity index of cellulose were 594.51 and 72.26%, respectively. Whereas, MCC powders showed DP of 241.09–257.38 and crystallinity indexes of 76.45–84.52%. Spray dried MCC was found to be more porous and poorly flowable and had higher moisture content when compared with the oven-dried MCC powder. Tablets prepared from both MCC powders fulfil most of the pharmacopoeial requirements. The spray-dried MCC powder also showed superior compactibility to oven-dried MCC. Teff straw can, therefore, be considered to be an alternative source of cellulose and MCC.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2023
Estimation of the Physical Parameters of Grewia Optiva Fibers and Prediction of Sound Absorption Coefficient with Theoretical Models

Kishor Kalauni, S. J. Pawar

Sound absorbers play a significant role in keeping a quiet and noise-free environment. Both synthetic and natural materials can use to control noise. Currently, natural materials are a valid alternative to conventional synthetic materials. This paper aims to study the physical parameters of Grewia Optiva fibers. The theoretical models’ assessment has been carried out to calculate the sound absorption coefficient with the help of Scilab software for synthetic (melamine foam, polyurethane foam, and mineral wool) and natural (kenaf fiber, coir fiber, and Grewia Optiva fiber) materials. The results from the simulation conclude that the sound absorption coefficient of Grewia Optiva fiber is almost similar to or much better than other synthetic and natural sound absorbers. Hence, Grewia Optiva fibers can be a valid substitute for traditional sound absorbers for sound absorption purposes.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2022
Extraction and Characterization of a Novel Natural Lignocellulosic (Bagasse and Husk) Fibers from Arrowroot (Maranta Arundinacea)

Jamal Tarique, Salit Mohd Sapuan, Abdan Khalina

This study set out with the aim of assessing the morphology and properties of lignocellulosic fiber extracted from the tubers mainly found in tropical forests called arrowroot (Maranta arundinacea). Arrowroot bagasse (ABF) and husk fibers (AHF) were extracted and the physical, chemical, thermal, morphological properties, as well as crystallinity, were characterized. The chemical composition analysis revealed that ABF has higher cellulose (45.97%) than AHF (37.35%), cassava bagasse (10.04%), and corn hull (15.30%). In addition, ABF are significantly low in lignin (2.78%) and density (1.11 g/cm3) than AHF, corn hull, and cassava. In this research, the physical, chemical, thermal, structural, and morphological properties of arrowroot bagasse and husk fibers were investigated by particle size analysis, chemical composition analysis, thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM), respectively. With respect to the above characterization of fibers, it was found that the lignocellulosic biomasses from arrowroot are alternative promising sustainable material, which can be used in food packaging as a renewable filler.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2022
Classifying colour differences in dyed fabrics using an improved hunger games search optimised random vector functional link

Xiaochun Zhang, Zhiyu Zhou

This study proposes an algorithm for classifying colour differences in dyed fabrics using random vector functional link (RVFL) optimised using an improved hunger games search (HGS) algorithm to replace the inefficient traditional classification methods. First, to prevent the HGS algorithm from easily arriving at the local optimal solution, we used the grey wolf optimiser (GWO) to generate the solution set of the HGS algorithm. Subsequently, to reduce the impact of the randomness of the input weight and hidden layer offset on the classification accuracy of RVFL, we used the improved HGS to optimise these two parameters of RVFL. Finally, the RVFL optimised using the improved HGS algorithm is used for classifying the colour differences of dyed fabrics. The performance of the proposed classification algorithm is compared with HGS algorithms improved using the whale optimiser, sine cosine algorithm, and Harris hawks optimiser. The results revealed that the proposed algorithm possesses several advantages, including the maximum, minimum, and average classification errors; good stability; and fast convergence.

Materials of engineering and construction. Mechanics of materials, Chemical technology
DOAJ Open Access 2022
Triangulation proves Geum brocade with the horizontal loom of Gojoseon

Jisu Kim, Young-Joo Na

Abstract Geum (錦, Jin) is a jacquard brocade silk fabric (or doubled~tripled woven) with multi-colored warps. Because patterns are shown by colored yarns of overlapping warp layers, it is dense and stiff, making bulky silhouette of layerlook suitable in cool or dry weather. This fabric is completely different from the drape and lightweight low-density plain weave of ‘China silk’. KyungGeum (經錦, warp direction color yarns) requires a high level of weaving technology, different from WiGeum(緯錦, weft direction color yarns). Geums excavated in Louran and Niya of Xinjiang Autonomous Region, Astana, Pazyrik and Noin-Ula have the pattern of animal flock style of Northern people. The purpose of this study is to find out who wove these Geum fabrics by the triangulation of literatures, relics and loom technology. The pattern was quite complex, so a horizontal and rectangular type of loom or a special loom ‘JeHwa-Ru(製華樓)’ were required. Since the ‘Warring States Period(戰國時代)’ of China, all Han (漢) looms were oblique looms with one heald and KyungGeum production was impossible with these looms. The same is true for vertical looms in Central Asia. Also, the Odes(詩經) and the Shujing(書經) told that barbarian and bandits had weaved KyungGeum. Geum as the special products of Goguryeo and Silla it was exported to China and Japan. Therefore it is reasonable to regard the KyungGeum relics of Niya and of Louran as those from Gojoseon, Goguryeo, Silla(Seres) of Korea, as a result of comprehensive examining the year of production, historical documents, pattern symbolism and loom types.

Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc., Social Sciences
DOAJ Open Access 2022
Study of the Water and Energy Consumptions in the Dyeing of Cotton with Curcuma Longa by Pad-Batch Process Using Response Surface Methodology

Mônica A. Faloppa, Joselene B. F. Correia, Thaís S. Silva et al.

Mathematical modeling was employed in order to optimize pad-batch process using C. longa natural dyestuff applied in dyeing of cotton, against the conventional dyeing by exhaustion with the same dyestuff under best applications parameters recommended by dyestuff supplier. Ecological costs, consumption of water, electrical, and thermal energy, were assessed. The application of the model in the studied process versus the conventional process demonstrated that is possible to obtain an economy of 1.418 × 106 J kg‒1 of energy, in addition to an economy of 95% in water consumption, without significant detriment in the color fastness assessed.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2022
Characterisation of Elementary Kenaf Fibres Extracted Using HNO<sub>3</sub> and H<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub>/CH<sub>3</sub>COOH

Niphaphun Soatthiyanon, Alan Crosky

In this study, elementary kenaf fibres were separated from fibre bundles using two different treatments. The first involved treating with nitric acid (HNO<sub>3</sub>) while the second used a mixture of hydrogen peroxide (H<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub>) and acetic acid (CH<sub>3</sub>COOH). Both treatments were successful in isolating the elementary fibres but the H<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub>/CH<sub>3</sub>COOH gave a better fibre yield and required a shorter treatment time. The fibres treated with HNO<sub>3</sub> had an average length of 0.2 mm, an aspect ratio of 15 and a defect density of 21 defects per mm. In contrast, the H<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub>/CH<sub>3</sub>COOH treated fibres had a length of 2.3 mm, an aspect ratio of 179 and a defect density of 14 defects per mm. Both treatments removed lignin, pectin, and waxes. They also increased cellulose crystallinity in the fibres, especially for HNO<sub>3</sub> treatment. However, they resulted in some oxidation of cellulose. The H<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub>/CH<sub>3</sub>COOH treatment gave a substantial improvement in the thermal stability of the fibres while a marked decrease was observed for the HNO<sub>3</sub> treatment.

Chemicals: Manufacture, use, etc., Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2021
Antimicrobial Natural Cellulose Fibers from Hyptis suaveolens for Potential Biomedical and Textiles Applications

Vijaykumar Guna, Manikandan Ilangovan, Chunyan Hu et al.

In this research, tulsi (wild type) stalks were treated with NaOH to obtain natural cellulosic fibers. X-ray diffractions showed typical cellulose diffraction peak at 22.7°. The fibers had a tensile strength of 445 MPa, higher than fibers obtained from other agricultural residues. The fibers also displayed good thermal stability up to 300℃ making it suitable for a wide range of applications. The fibers inherited the antimicrobial properties from the stalks and showed high activities against both Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria. The extracted fibers could be used in composites and manufacturing tents and canvas.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2021
Water Uptake and Its Effects on Mechanical and Acoustic Properties of flax/polypropylene Composite

Andi Haris, Umeyr Kureemun, Le Quan Ngoc Tran et al.

The effects of moisture on the mechanical and acoustic properties of flax fibers embedded in polypropylene (PP) were investigated in the present study. Flax/PP and hybrid flax-carbon/PP samples were immersed in water at controlled temperatures. The water intake over time in flax/PP was shown to approach Fickian behavior at room temperature while hybrids showed strong deviations. Through hybridization with 13% carbon fibers, water uptake in flax-carbon PP was reduced by 25%. For thin hybrid laminates, positioning carbon fibers at the outer edges caused no significant difference in the rate of moisture uptake. Micrographic analysis revealed that carbon fiber bundles are more susceptible to resin deficiency in flax-carbon/PP hybrids due to its densely packed thin fibers. The stiffness of moisture-saturated flax/PP samples was 50% lower than dry specimens, with 35% increase in failure strain. The tensile strength, however, was almost unaffected, and both, dry and wet samples, exhibited similar damage characteristics. The stiffness reduction affected the acoustic performance: the resonant frequency was reduced, and the STL were lowered in the stiffness-controlled frequency domain. To determine the unknown water uptake at saturation, an accelerated method was presented as an alternative time-efficient solution for designers.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
DOAJ Open Access 2019
Characterization of natural cellulosic fiber from bark of Albizia amara

P. Senthamaraikannan, M. R. Sanjay, K. Subrahmanya Bhat et al.

The present investigation aimed to understand the physicochemical properties of new natural fiber extracted from Albizia amara (AA) bark. The chemical composition and structural, thermal, and tensile properties of AA fibers (AAFs) were investigated. The results indicated that AAF had crystallinity index of 63.78%, cellulose of 64.54 wt%, hemicellulose of 14.32 wt%, lignin of 15.61 wt%, and low density of 1043 kg/m3. Thermogravimetric analysis shows that AAFs were thermally stable up to 330.6°C and the functional groups of the AAFs were identified by Fourier transform infrared analysis. The AAFs exhibited tensile strength of 640 ± 13.4 MPa with strain rate of 1.57 ± 0.04%. This investigation reveals that AAFs could be a suitable material as reinforce agent in natural fiber–polymer composites for different applications.

Science, Textile bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.

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