Understanding the Fashion and Textile Waste Stream in Accra, Ghana

Purpose: This study aims to investigate and characterise the fashion and textile (FT) waste stream in Accra, Ghana. Specifically, it focuses on identifying significant sources of FT waste, current management practices, and the potential of upcycling. As the global fashion industry increasingly addresses sustainability challenges, understanding localised waste patterns is crucial for developing effective, circular, and sustainable interventions tailored to the needs of the developing world. Methodology/Design: Employing a qualitative approach, semi-structured interviews were conducted, utilising snowball sampling to recruit 11 participants who are experts and key stakeholders in the fashion, waste management, and sustainability sectors in Accra. In-depth data were collected through online interviews conducted via Microsoft Teams and WhatsApp, with all sessions audio recorded. The data were analysed with NVivo software, enabling systematic thematic coding and interpretation. Participant interviews were supplemented with government reports and academic literature, triangulating the data to provide a broader context. The study received ethical approval from De Montfort University (DMU) and followed DMU's research ethics policy, including obtaining informed consent from all participants. Findings: Initial findings reveal that the FT waste stream in Accra is primarily driven by imports of second-hand clothing, surplus from local production, and inadequate waste sorting. Participants emphasised the lack of formal infrastructure (e.g., dedicated textile recycling centres), limited public awareness, and weak enforcement of relevant policies. However, there was consensus on the emergence of community-led movements/initiatives focused on upcycling and reuse. The findings also suggest growing awareness of the economic and environmental benefits of reducing textile waste by creating valuable products. Practical and Social Implications: This study provides policymakers, environmental organisations, and social entrepreneurs with actionable strategies to improve the sustainable management of FT waste. Furthermore, it raises social awareness by highlighting how community-driven solutions and active stakeholder engagement can foster eco-innovation and advance circular economy practices in urban Ghana. Originality: The study addresses an important research gap by presenting one of the first qualitative analyses of the fashion and clothing waste context in Accra. By integrating local perspectives with global sustainability discourses, it offers a unique contribution to the field. Its emphasis on upcycling and the inclusion of diverse stakeholder voices enhances its originality, positioning it as a valuable addition to both theoretical and practical research on sustainable fashion and waste reduction in sub-Saharan Africa